2019 | Bike Rides Bangalore

Monday, February 4, 2019

This is why Trekking to Skandagiri is a bad idea.

Place: Skandagiri Hills a.k.a Kalavara Betta.

Distance: 65 km from Bangalore
Type: Trek
Ideal for: Friends
Trek Difficulty:  Moderate to Difficult
Trek Length: 4 kilometer on way

Trek Duration: 2 hours to ascend
Best time to visit: To watch sunrise
Best season to visit: Throughout the year

I never write a negative post about any place, but this time I couldn't control myself from expressing my experience of my trek to Skandagir on 14th Jan 2019.

Best of the beast: Up above the cloud so high.

A little bit of History: I had visit Skandagiri back in 2011 with my college friends, apparently, it was my first trek and an experience of a lifetime. Skandagiri trek got banned by the Chikballapur forest department after numerous missing events and mishaps. Recently in 2016 July, the Karnataka Eco-Tourism Board took a good decision to allow guided trek at Skandagiri and  6 other hills around Bangalore. The treks which used to be free of cost now started costing 450 per head. Trekkers were unhappy and not everyone could afford it (especially for students). The govt then reduced the price to 250. Still Rs. 250 per head seems to a be huge amount compared to other major treks in western ghats.

Eco trail website is a joke: A photo of Skandagiri posted on Instagram triggered me to go for this trek. I checked the Eco Trails website to book the tickets. There were no slots for the coming weekend. Moreover, there were no slots available for the next three months. It was suspicious to see slots booked for three months including weekdays, at first it looked like a bug in the website. I decided to take a chance and try getting the tickets offline at the forest office itself.

Monday Morning: Skandagiri was known for the night trek but now the trek is permitted only after 4 am. I woke up at 1.30 in the night, I called Akshay who was supposed to be my pillion rider for the day, he bailed out at the last moment. So it was just me, Shreyas (colleague) and his friend.

Bone freezing Ride: We started from our respective homes at 1.50 in the night and assembled at Hebbal flyover. After a short intro and a hot cup of tea, we resumed our ride. The road was empty and there was no traffic except cabs going to the airport. It was bone-freezing cold, I mean it. It was so cold that I couldn't ride above 40 kmph even after wearing three layers of clothes and a jacket. The temperature further dropped down after Devanahalli. After reaching Chikballapur we relied on the Google Maps which showed accurate location. 

Skandagiri Base: We reached Lord Shiva Temple which is the starting point of the trek at 3.45 in the morning.  There were already a lot of bikes and cars parked at this place. We didn't have a clue about the forest office and where to buy the tickets. I inquired one of the group to check if they managed to get the trek permission. A girl from the group said we can book for future dates online and we are good to go. Even her group had done the same thing. Looking at her confidence it was clear that she was a knowledgable person but I didn't want to take the risk. We moved to the forest office where we were supposed to get the offline permission.

The shiva temple marks the starting of the trek

The forest department and the helpful numbers
There was none at the Forest office: There was supposed to be a forest officer or guide to help the trekkers but there were none. There were many people waiting for the forest officers to come and give us the permit.
 After waiting for 20 minutes we finally called a number given on the board. He told he will send the person, he also confirmed I can book for other dates if slots are not available. That explained why all the slots for the next three months were full.

The Dilemma: I booked for future dates and waited for 15 more minutes but still, no one from the forest department turns up. The time was running and it was crucial for us to start the trek by now otherwise we would be missing the sunrise. Most of the groups were in the same dilemma but since we had confirmation from the forest officer and had the permission with us, we started trekking.

The worst part of the trek: After we trekked for almost 20 min we could hear a man shouting loudly and asking us to come down. I realized it was the forest guard and he must be calling us as we didn't inform him. We had two options, one is to ignore him and continue trekking and other is to return, inform him and start trekking. I didn't want to take any risk as it's a highly sensitive trek. We descended, the guard said we need to write down our names in the ledger.

We showed him the booking ID but he told we need to register our names in the ledger. We tried to convince him as the time was running but he didn't seem to get convinced. Meanwhile, he allowed another group of 10 people who also had done the future booking. I was a little angry at the discrimination. We came back to the forest office but there was no other person from the forest office except this man. The trek was supposed to 4 am but it was already 5 am and no one had any clue if we will get the permit or not. The forest department wasn't doing their duty properly.

The conversation with the forest guard went like this,
Me: Tell me where to register? We need to start the trek, it's already 5 am.
Gaurd: Have you done the booking online?
Me: Yes (and showed him the booking details.)
Guard: Is the trek date is today?
Me: No. I already told you it's a future booking.
Guard: Then come on that day only.
Me: I called xxx (forest officer) and after confirming from him only I booked.
Guard: Then wait till he comes.
Me: When will he come?
Guard: I don't know.

The clock was ticking and 30+ people including us were waiting for someone from the forest department to come and give us the permit. We called the same number written on the board again but the number was not reachable this time. Meanwhile, one of the group got angry and started quarreling with the guard. The guard was not listening to anyone and he was simply telling us to wait for the forest officer but there was no sign of anyone coming. It was 5.30, it wouldn't make any sense to trek now, we wanted to drop the idea and go to Nandi hills but we had booked tickets online :( Few groups dropped the plan and went to Nandi hills and few others got angry and started trekking without caring for the guard.

WTF Moment: At 5.45 the guard opens the door of the office, gives us the ledger and asks us to enter the details. Wtf is this I asked. If he had the ledger with him why he didn't give us before? If he could allow us to trek now then why he didn't allow us before an hour? I got super pissed off and shouted at him for wasting our time. How can he think we can start now and witness the sunrise? I realized the plan to Skandagiri was a bad idea but we had no other choice but to trek now.

Is it worth trekking now? We checked the sunrise time, it was 6.40 am. If we can manage to trek within an hour we could see the sunrise. It will take 2+ hours to trek at a normal pace and the trek is moderate. We took the risk to scale the stretch as quickly as possible to not miss the iconic sunrise.

Trekking in the dark is a thrilling experience

The fast trek: It was still dark, the torch helped us to lead our way. The path is pretty clear and there were few arrow marks for navigation (but very difficult to identify). We trekked nonstop for the next 30 minutes and covered almost half the distance. It was exhausting and we were running out of breath. But there was no time to take rest. We had to keep our pace to catch up with the time. The trek would have been so much fun and easy if we had started at 4 am. We cursed the guard throughout the way. My friends stopped to catch the breath while I continued trekked alone to not compromise the Sunrise. The inclination was steep and it was difficult to climb each step without taking a break. The trek which was supposed to be thrilling and fun became a punishment due to lack of organization from the forest department.

The place got lit as we trekked

Chasing the rising sun

A perfect vantage point to watch the sunrise

The mesmerizing sunrise
Mesmerizing Sunrise: I looked at the time, it was 6.40. The place was already lit up with the morning sun yet the sun was hiding behind the horizon. The peak was another 15 minutes away so I stopped and found a vantage point to witness the sunrise. Within 5 minutes the sun rose from the clouds. It was a sight to behold. I resumed my trek to reach the peak. It took me one hour and 200% effort to reach the peak.

The golden rays of sun lit up the whole space

Sun rising above the cloud
My friends were behind so I just sat down enjoying the magnanimous sight of the sun rising above beds of clouds, a sight so rare and equally refreshing. Without blinking my eyes I kept on watching the sun play hide and seek with the clouds. It was a sight to behold.

The place was covered with the clouds

It was a sight to behold to witness such view
I was sitting alone and waiting for my friends who were probably taking a lot of pics on the way. One thought kept on bugging me in my head - Is this the trek worth taking so much trouble? The view could be speechless but the trouble was real. I understand whatever the forest department does it is for the safety of trekkers like us. I do respect the rules and regulations of the forest dept but it's equal responsibility of forest dept to execute the treks in an organized way.

Everything at the place looked so much photogenic, even me :P
We spent another hour taking photos and enjoying the view. Apart from the beautiful sunrise, the ruined remains of Tipu Sultan's fortress grabbed my attention. We started descending at 10 am. The descend felt difficult than the ascent.

I loved these pillars which make it beautiful point for photography

like this one

Who is scared of heights?

Not me for sure :P
We reached the forest office at 11 am. Apart from the forest guard we met in there morning, there were other two forest officers. They took an apology letter from the people who didn't take the permit. I talked with them and asked why there are so many fewer slots for the trekking (only 40 per day) while the demand is so huge (around 500 - 1000 on a weekend). The officer expressed similar concern and said even they are contacting higher authorities to increase the slots. We had coconut water and started riding back to Bangalore.

Inside the temple atop

This nandi statue grabbed my attention 
Look who we have here

Well said

Going up an optional, getting down is mandatory. 
We took a breakfast stop at Nandi Upachar. While riding back I saw police with the speed at more than 4 places. Luckily I was riding under 70 kmph so I didn't get pulled over. I reached my room at 1 in the afternoon and I straight went to sleep.

Conclusion: I agree the thrill of trekking in the dark and mesmerizing sunrise of Skandagiri is must experience but taking this much of trouble isn't really worth it. I hope the forest department will increase the slots and execute the guided trek better in the future.

This is my first-time experience with Eco trails guided trek. Let me know how was your experience in the comment section below.


Thursday, January 17, 2019

Coastal Karnataka Day 4 - Trek to Yana Caves

Place: Yana Caves and Rocks, Yana

Distance: 444 km from Bangalore
Type: Trek
Trek Distance: 3 km
Ideal for: Family and Friends
Best time to visit: Post Monsoon

Our Coastal Karnataka trip was going on a lazy mode. We were hardly covering one or two places per day but we were not compromising on food and sleep :D Well, most of my trips used to be on a tight schedule, more concerned about seeing the places but this time we were just chilling out.

Best of the Beast:  Nestled among rolling hills and surrounded by a thick forest, stand the black limestone monoliths of Yana village. Courtesy: Sharat Chandra

The New Year Eve celebration was amazing yesterday night. We went to sleep only after 3 am so we woke up late in the morning at 11 am. Today's agenda was just to visit Yana and go back to Bangalore.

How did our 4 days trip go you ask?
After searching for a while we found a decent restaurant at Kumta for breakfast. Yana is 28 km from Kumta, but because it passes through Ghat section it took close to an hour to reach Yana. On the way, we stopped at Agnashini River bridge which looked astonishing. The 5-minute break turned into 30 minutes photo session as everyone wanted a perfect profile picture for their social media. It was 1 in the afternoon and the sun was high in the sky. Finally, after lots of twists and turns in the Ghat, we reached Yana.

Incredible view of the Agnashini River

I could stare at the calm river for hours together and never get bored.

The complete Gang in a single frame.
Brief about Yana: Hidden gem in the Uttara Kannada District, Yana shot to fame after being portrayed as a picnic spot in the Kannada movie, Nammoora Mandara Hoove. Yana finds a mention in mythology, after earning a boon from Shiva to turn anyone he touches into ash, the demon Bhasmasura tries to touch the head of Shiva, who pleads to Vishnu to intervene. Vishnu appears to Bhasmasura in the form of the alluring Mohini, charming him so completely that the demon proposes to her. Mohini agrees but on one condition – he will have to match her steps as she dances. The demon immediately agrees, and as the dance progresses, he forgets his boon. Mohini touches her head and Bhasmasura follows suit. The explosion was so intense that it turned the stones this dark.

Route map of Yana Caves
There are two routes to reach Yana, one is from Kumta (the one we took) and other is from Sirsi. To reach Yana Rocks from the parking spot one has to do mild trekking. The trek distance is more and slightly difficult from Kumta side and it is shorter and easier from the Sirsi side. Make sure you take the same route back while descending otherwise you will be lost in the woods.

Even though it was a weekday there was a considerable number of vehicles parked in the parking area. There are no restaurants but there were few stalls selling refreshments and water. We carried a water bottle and a cold drink.

The board welcomes to Yana. The trek starts from this parking area.

There are no restaurants but few stalls selling refreshments and water

Trek time: After visiting beaches every day for the past 3 days we were happy to see greenery and forest on the 4th day. The trek is 3 km long and the first part of the trek is slanted and doesn't have steps and the second part is steep and it is assisted by steps. Undoubtedly the first part of the trek was the most beautiful. With greenery surrounded on both the sides, the route covered by shades which makes it easy to trek at any time of the day.

The route is covered by thick forest on either side making it trekkable at any time of the day

There is also a tiny water stream running along the route which makes the trek charming. During monsoon, this path will be covered by blood-sucking leeches, so if you are attempting this trek during monsoon then make sure you have precaution taken to avoid leeches (read my post about Bandaje falls where we encountered the worst experience with leeches).

There is a small water stream to the right en route. Don't forget to have a look at it.

Bluetooth speaker vs Birds calls it was.

We took a stop to visit the water stream on the right. The bird call and the stream gurgle added to the beauty of nature. About 3km away, we finally reach a small Ganesh temple after which the steps started. The steps are well placed and are easier to climb. Finally, we could see the first rock - Mohini Shikara to our left. The rock is about 90m tall and it is the most beautiful rock.

Ganesha temple on the way. After this point, the stairs start.
Stunning view of the Mohini Shikara at Yana. 

The 90 meters tall Mohini Shikara is the most beautiful Rock among the two peaks

The surrounding thick forest is a sight to behold

The last stretch of the Trek.
We crossed a bridge and continued past it to the cave temple at the base of Bhairaveshwara Shikara, the taller peak at 120m. There is a small cave temple at the base of the hill dedicated to Bhairaveshwara. After paying our respects to the naturally formed lingam deep inside the cavernous sanctum sanctorum, we proceed to circumambulate the rock. There are stairs which pass through the center of Bhairaveshwara hills

The 120-meter tall Bhairaweshwara Shikara is the biggest Monolith here.

Temple at the base of the hill is dedicated to Bhairaveshwara

The naturally formed linga in the Sanctum is worshipped by devotees.

The Yana caves look marvelous as you get closer to it

As we look up at the sky, the sheer enormity of the massif makes us speechless

The soaring black limestone peaks of Yana
Silhouette of the Mohini Shikara 
We wanted to get into the water while returning but we were running out of time so we decided to skip it for this time. The next destination was directly Bangalore. It was almost 4.30 pm by the time we started driving back. We stopped near Devimane for a tea break and sightseeing. We took another stop at Sirsi for minor car repair. We reached Bangalore at 3 am.

We took a shop at This view point

There is a small temple here. The place is named as Devimane

And this is the stunning view from the temple

Important Notes:
1. Yana temple timings: 6 AM to 7 PM
2. The route is well-marked, so there is no need for a guide. 
3. Ensure that you are well-covered, especially in the monsoons as there will be leeches.
4. The trek is medium in difficulty from Kumta side, I saw elder people climbing along so it shouldn't be a big issue if you are planning to get your parents here.
5. The 3km-long trek begins from Sundholle via Anegundi, while the 0.5km route is closer to Sirsi.
6. There are no entry fees but there is a nominal parking charge. 
7. There are basic functional toilets at the entrance.
8. Make sure you descend from the same route as you ascended.

Check out the remarkable drone footage of Yana on Sharat Chandra's youtube video. PS: The aerial view of the Yana caves are captured from the same youtube video.

Read all the posts of the 4 days Coastal Karnataka trip
Coastal Karnataka trip Day 1 - Panambur beach, Mangalore
Coastal Karnataka Day 2 - Saavira Kambada Basadi
Coastal Karnataka Day 2 - St Mary's island, Malpe.
Coastal Karnataka Day 3 - Celebrating New Year at Om Beach, Gokarna.

Do leave your thoughts in the comment section below. Let me know if you need any info.